Tasmania – runaway from the mainland

We flew to Tasmania from Cairns, so it was a change from tropical climate to more “normal”. Finally some use for the long sleeve shirts! It’s December, and the summer has started. The weather reminds of ours in Finland in summer time, can be warm (here warmer than in Finland), but can be also rainy.

The whole idea of Tasmania is because of Jarrah, the young orienteer, who stayed in our place to train for Junior World Orienteering Championships to be held next year in Tampere. We got the stay at his family in their big house at Kingston beach, near Hobart.

Hobart is a lovely small city, it has everything you need, and easy to go through by feet. We were lucky to be there on Saturday when the Salamanca market takes place.

In the harbor there was the ship of Sea Shepherds. They organized free tours to their brand new and fast ship, it was interesting to visit them and a bit support their good actions.

Hobart otherwise is just compact and nice with pretty old buildings and lovely parks. We sensed hint of Europe, there were more European products in the shops and somehow the atmosphere and people were just different from the ones we have met in Queensland and in New South Wales. Also, maybe as once found by the Dutch as Van Diemen’s land, there were some Dutch habits, like celebration for Sinterklaas!

Mount Wellington is 1271 m above sea level, and can be reached with a 22 km road from the center of Hobart. The views over the city and surrounding national parks are spectacular. 

Jarrah’s father Jemery was very kind and took us to a trip to Mount Field National park meanwhile Jarrah was learning life saving the whole weekend. We did a very long (compared to our experience) hike (“Tarn Shelf Circuit via Lake Newdegate, Twilight Tarn and Lake webster”) at Mt Field, and the scenery was something we have never seen before. There was a bit of Lapland and Norway in it! The forest changed during the walk, and was just impossible beautiful!

Down at the Mt Field there are the Russell Falls, one of the nicest waterfall we have seen. The whole national park was so lovely with the pretty views and happy people.

We made a two day trip to Freycinet National Park. There we had a walk around The Hazards Mountains to see the famous Wineglass Bay. We were on this trip with Jarrah and his girlfriend Francine, and got to stay in such a nice villa in Coles Bay. So relaxing time in perfect sceneries – without internet! Playing UNO as long as Jukka won (many rounds…).

The whole eastern coast line of Tasmania is said to be one of the most beautiful drives in the world. And it indeed is! We didn’t go too far, but the sceneries we saw were just wonderful! There are lot of beautiful beaches, so many sheep and plenty of wineries. On the way back we took a dirt road “shortcut” to reach Port Arthur. The 4WD was needed! We also saw the animal called echidna (Finnish: nokkasiili) which was grossing the road (again, no photo…).

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In Port Arthur Historic site (http://portarthur.org.au/) you can get the idea how the whole Tasmania basically has begun. The place is such a confusing mixture of natural beauty, and some tragic past. Definitely worth to visit (entrance 38 AUD).

On the way in Tasman National park we saw again great places, unusual geological formations, the Tasman Arch and Devil’s Kitchen, and the formation called Blow Hole. Never seen anything like that!

We didn’t have too much time in Port Arthur (if you go there, reserve at least 3 hours for the site!), as we needed to catch Hobart in time to take part in the local orienteering rehearsal. And yes, in the Queen’s Domain park there was really nice little competition. Marja took the medium track, and spent her time searching for target no 4 (for 8 minutes!!), otherwise she was satisfied. Jarrah naturally won the long distance, Jemery was really fast as well, while Jukka took his time. The results and GPS track are here: https://eventor.orienteering.asn.au/Events/ResultList?eventId=3382&groupBy=EventClass. And after all it wasn’t that scary to run in the local forest (it was more like a park), no snakes, no spiders! By the way, the result board was really cute. You get your name and time printed out as a sticker, and you attach the sticker to piece of wooden block and hang it in according to your position.

Our last evening Jemery offered us few great experiences! First, we made vegetarian pizzas with him. How many different things you can combine! Beans, tabasco, nuts… After the lovely pizzas we still went to a park to search for animals in the night. And we saw quite a few: bettong, wallaby, padymelon, possum and a bird tawny frogmouth. That was so great! We would have never gone there on our own (afraid of darks anyway…), and if had, we wouldn’t have noticed the possum in the tree etc.

Our return from this isolated island was with a ferry, Spirit of Tasmania, from Davenport. We needed to catch a bus to reach it, and it took us basically the whole day. The ferry is Finnish made (Kvaerner Masa-Yard), and it reminded us of the ferry we tend to take between Helsinki and Tallinn. No tax free tho.

So, here we come, Melbourne!

Cairns and surroundings – the tropic!

The most reasonable way to reach Cairns in our opinion is by internal flight. It’s really far up in the north. It’s part of the state of Queensland, but totally different from the southern part. The first thing what hits you is the heath! It’s tropical – day and night!

In Cairns itself there is not that much to see. The highlights would be the swimming lagoon at the beach front. Other thing we liked was a market, mainly for fruits, held on Fri-Sat-Sun. In the center, there is also held night markets from 5 pm every day, there can be found some nice cheap food as well. There were the bat season while we stayed, and near bus station there were few trees packed with bats. Luckily we didn’t watch those with open mouth, as one of those bastards dropped shit on Marja’s shirt.

The botanical garden is also big and pretty, we went to run there one morning.

The thing in Cairns are the tours out from the town. They keep on selling these everywhere, and it’s hard to distinguish the companies from each other, also the prices are pretty much the same.

Our solution to see as much as possible was to rent a car for three days, it was very cheap (our recommendation: East Coast Car Rental, http://www.eastcoastcarrentals.com.au/). Our small Hyundai had very low fuel consumption, so it was really affordable.

We drove first to Atherton Tablelands, to see the lovely scenery with lot of farms. It’s nice drive up with serpentine road. On the way, we stopped to check Cathedral Fig Tree in Danbulla state forest. We found also the platypus animal in Yungaburra Platypus Viewing Area, yes, we saw it (tho no photo available)! Curtain Fig Tree was another impressive old tree on our way.

There were lots of lovely waterfalls too. The nicest were the Millaa Millaa falls.

It was a bit tricky to find a place to stay over in the Tablelands, and we needed to drive back to the coast in darkness, and had a night in lovely Palm Cove. There was also a lovely beach with stinger protection net (safe to swim) and a long pier.

TIP! Search your accommodation before darkness (before 6 pm!), the receptions of campsites close around 6 pm, and in the dark it’s anyway hard to see the signs etc.

We spend one day in supposedly the oldest rain forest of the world, in Daintree forest. It’s easy to drive there, you only need to cross the Daintree river with a little ferry (26 AUD return per car). There are all the national park paths available for free to walk around. Swimming wasn’t possible as there were stingers on the beaches and besides the crocodiles could come from the rivers.

The walks in the forests were relatively short (max 1 hour) and easy, so it was really perfect place to see.

On our way back south from Daintree forests, we stayed one night in a very traditional hotel in Mossman. It looked like a house from Western Films, and it was quite special in all ways… Very cheap tho. Our original plan was to check also Mossman Gorge, but once getting there to the information center, we decided we’ve already seen enough of rain forest and the compulsory bus tour (9.10 AUD) wasn’t appealing to us, we would have liked to rather walk ourselves. We thought it was a bit strange to warn how “the Aboriginals don’t like people walking through their land” and how “the shuttle bus cannot secure they pass walkers safely”…

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The coastline north from Cairns is absolutely magnificent! The nicest spots to stop by are in our opinion Port Douglas and Palm Cove. Photos from Port Douglas.

The highlight and meanwhile also the biggest reason to drop to Cairns was the Great Barrier Reef. We had a day tour there, quite randomly booked via tourist information among dozens of options. In our trip there were way too many people, and it was with very basic services (http://downundercruiseanddive.com.au/evolution_cruise.php). If they have in the leaflet that there is a lunch, they shouldn’t be announcing in every five minutes that “don’t eat too much so that everybody gets some”. The fruits were only for the fast ones, same with the stinger protection suits (strange!). Nevertheless, it wasn’t the main point, they anyway brought us up to almost to the outer reefs. We got to snorkel twice, and especially for the first timer Marja it was such a unique experience, and no words can describe what it was like. Well, you just put your face to the water, and you see a totally different world! The colorful fish, the valleys and mountains of the reef… When you are on the edge of a reef formation, you feel you fly, as the bottom is so far away, but with the clear water it’s no different if it’s water or air. And when you feel some scary looking fish is too close, you just lift your face from the water and you are again in the “normal” world. Absolutely the best ever! Unfortunately we didn’t have any waterproof camera, so the images are in the nature documents and in our heads.

In our last night, we met the first Finnish since Coffs Harbour WRC, Annica and Juuso! It was great to hear from them how it is to stay in Australia for longer period and what it is to work in here too. Great to catch up with you guys and good luck for the rest of the stay!

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Next, we will take another internal flight, and head to Tasmania! Looking forward to the colder climate 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sydney

The biggest city of Australia was our destination for three nights. It’s expensive to stay there overnight, but luckily there are some budget options.

We got to see most of the main sights. We started from the place the whole city has started: The Rocks. we took part in free walking tour (they collet tips in the end), http://www.imfree.com.au/sydney/rocksat6/. It was really good way to get the overview of the area, even Jukka lost the group at some stage (don’t ask).

Tip! As soon as in Sydney, buy yourself “Opal”-card, it’s the only way to use public transportation. Just load the card, the maximum you can spend a day is 15 AUD.

There are good happy hour offers both in food and drinks, that’s how we avoided to spend too much. Keep your eyes open! The city is easy to even walk around, it’s small enough, and on the other hand public transportation works out fine.

In Darling Harbour there is Maritime Museum, many ships are seen in the harbour even you wouldn’t pay the entrance to the museum itself.

Chinatown with its markets (Paddy market) is place to see, and there is good (and cheap) food.

 

One morning we went for a run to Botanical Garden and its surroundings. From there it was great to see the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. Another morning we went to swim in Andrew (Boy) Charlton Pool, which was cheap (6 AUD per person), and definitely worth to visit, we really liked the place. Water is filtered sea water and you can both bath and sun bath the same time in a great scenery.

 

For one evening Tony, the fan of Scandinavia, came to show us places around. It was so nice to spend time with other people than just hanging two of us. He introduced us also Thai Riffic (http://thairifficrandwick.com.au/thairifficrandwick.html) restaurant, where we used “BYO” for the first time, and brought our own bottle of wine to the restaurant. The restaurant was excellent, very tasty food!

 

On a drive, we saw also the famous Bondi Beach, and another lovely beach called Coogee beach.

Tony also took us to the other side of the bridge, from where the view towards the bridge and opera house was really beautiful! Without him we wouldn’t have found or reached this perfect spot! Tack så mycket Tony, we will meet again in Finland!

Our last day in Sydney we took the ferry to Manly village, and to its famous beach. The ferry trip is worth, you can even use the same Opal card for the transportation (about 14 AUD return). The scenery of the harbor is great and the village itself really pretty.

 

 

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The supposedly very good and nice zoo was left for the next time. The weather in Sydney wasn’t too hot (now in the end of November), not as hot as in the Gold Coast for example, so high time for us to head to the tropics, Cairns, here we come!

 

Blue Mountains

We left the coast line of New South Wales to take Jycy camper van up to the mountains for its last two nights with us. It’s the Blue Mountains, probably one of the most famous national parks of Australia.

The journey took a whole lot longer than we expected (started from Hawk’s Nest near Nelson Bay), basically the whole day. To pass Sydney from the northern side was quite time taking. On the way, we bought fresh fruits from village of Bilpin, and once in the national park area we had a look on the Mt. Tomah Botanical Garden (https://www.bluemountainsbotanicgarden.com.au/). That was a nice stop, and you get plenty of information of the area.

The village of Blackheath is less touristy than Katoomba. We stayed the night in Govetts Leap lookout, there were toilets and chance to eat our own food.

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Tip! Note that in the forests there are the mosquitoes! Quite annoying only. And you feel like at home.

The sunrise was at 5.44. We parked Jucy just on the edge of the cliff, and woke up for the sunrise, and yes, it was simply amazing! We were there just us, in totally unbelievable scenery and most beautiful sunrise.

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The most touristic part of the Blue Mountains is the Scenic World in Katoomba (http://www.scenicworld.com.au/). There are few cable ways and one train to reach the bottom of the valley and the next cliff. You can see the most without this “amusement park” (39 AUD per person the whole day, no chance for cheaper two way tickets), but we took it anyway, the train was good fun as it’s really steep, and it was easier and fast to reach the places, no need to drive the car.

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We walked Prince Henry Cliff Walk to the famous Three Sisters, and decided to make a longer walk by going down the Giant Stairway. On the way down we happened to meet Tony (going up all these stairs!), who ended up showing us around in Sydney in following weekend!

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We stayed over in Katoomba Caravan park, and ate all our remaining food, sold the boogie board and had a good last sleep in Jucy.

On our drive to Sydney we stopped at Wentworth Falls. Luckily we were there quite early, as it gets touristy during the day (like all the famous spots in Blue Mountains). The walk along the ridge towards the falls was really nice!

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All in all, we recommend to visit the Blue Mountains!

It was time to leave the camping life behind and drive to Sydney to return the car. We can really recommend the camping and sleeping in a car to everybody, it was the greatest way to explore the country, you can choose the route, there is some adventure in it, and it’s quite cost efficient. The rental is something between 25-35 AUD per day, and campsites 20-40 AUD per night (sure save is to sleep without camping, we did this twice). The traffic is really easy going and smooth, nobody is behind your back or pushing even you are slow. So, go for it!

World Rally Championship in Coffs Harbour

Driving down the New South Wales east coast brought us to Coffs Harbour, a town organizing the World Rally Championship competition on 17.- 20.11.2016. We stayed there two nights, and the first Finnish we met through our whole journey by far was the driver Jari-Matti Latvala! The first evening there was the opening ceremony of the event, and there we met so many cool people and beautiful cars. Marja’s favourite was the police car which was there because of the security of the event.

For the rally itself we got a three-day pass from lovely people from Tasmania, who drove Volvo Amazon in classic car series! We are really grateful and wait them to catch us up in Finland!

We checked altogether four stages, one of those was super special stage at the seaside.

Besides we checked the service area. The Skoda team is our favourite! A car from our favourite country (if we don’t count Australia), Finnish driving to victory in WRC2 class, and friendly service team we got to say “Ahoj!”.

There are not so many spectators in the rally event than in Finland and it was really easy to move from point to another, no problems with parking etc. Also, in every spot there were proper toilets (similar to those in airplanes) and small stand of local Lions Club selling rally sausages and drinks. No drunken people, no rush. We got the whole idea of the rally from Tuomas from Finland, and we got to meet him for a short while at one of the stages!

 

 

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New South Wales – Byron Bay and stuff

Our last night around Gold Coast we got to stay in a real house listening to DJ Lacky playing trance! Thank you so much Traci and Chris! This is how Above&Beyond connect people!

Driving south from the Queensland there is the next territory, New South Wales. First shock is that the clock is one hour ahead (due to daylight saving), so remember to turn it (and lose one hour of your life!). We stayed one night around in a camping in Fingal Head, with these views…

Byron Bay

The hippest and coolest place around in here is Byron Bay, that’s we have heard. It’s very beautiful, and yes, there you meet all kind of alternative people. There is a light house in Byron Head, have a look and be amazed!

We stayed two nights in Lennox Head village. It has the greatest surfing waves, we were on the beach with the boogie board, which was fun! We made a little day trip to Ballina and to Killen Falls in Tintenbar.

 

 

 

 

Brisbane

We visited Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, just daily. We left the caravan to a remote railway station and took a train to the center (again very easy to use!). We highly recommend to visit the city, it’s the nicest city out of those which have millions of people living.

In Brisbane Botanical Garden we saw a man putting orienteering targets! We went to him to ask what was it about and found out “Ugly Gully Orienteers” (https://oq.asn.au/ugly-gully-club-page) are having little rehearsal sprint competition. Jukka had better shoes than Marja and was able to take part! It was only a short course, but in the middle of it a terrible thunder storm started and everybody were as wet as someone can be. Luckily we got a ride from a lovely orienteering couple to the central station! We were so wet than we needed to buy new shirts before continuing our trip.

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Eumundi Market and The Hinterland – getaway from the sea

We visited a market in a village called Eumundi. We liked it a lot, there were local products, handicrafts, vegetables and fruits, clothes, fortune tellers, massagers… You name it. What was (luckily) missing were the “made in China” products, and that made the market really worth to visit! We had a lovely coffee (in a stall which played Above&Beyond) and delicious pizza (in a stall which played Nora en Pure). Great!

The Hinterlands are just on the other side of the motorway M1 than the coastline. The view to the Pacific is amazing and the villages are really pretty with their old buildings.

Tip! Be prepared to BBQ all the time! There are free and open BBQ places all over.

Frasier Island

From Noosa (Sunshine Coast) it’s possible to reach the biggest sand island of the world, Unesco world heritage site, Fraser island. It’s definitely worth to visit! We took an organized day trip. It costs, but on the other hand you don’t have to drive yourself a bit the whole day, you get the food and probably some of the nicest views of your life.

To get there from Noosa Heads you first drive through Cooloola national park, (the Great Sandy National park) passing the Rainbow beach. It was lovely beach, just impossible beautiful. For us it was so strange you can actually drive on the sandy beach. The beach is isolated and empty, and suddenly the normal traffic rules apply (like max speed of 80 km/h). It was impossible!

The Fraser island is huge (125 km long) and on a day trip you can only see a bit of it. We were ten tourists in the bus, and we got really nice lunch in an old logging station. We had a break in a lake McKenzie, and that was the top of it all, it was crystal clear silica water, and in the middle of the rainforest! With the sand, you can polish your jewelry (Jukka did his watch, not thinking the sand will end up also inside the watch).

Pictures should tell more…

 

Next we will start driving south from here in Noosa. We should reach Sydney (about 950 km) in next 12 days’ time. To be continued!

 

 

 

 

 

Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast – Welcome to the paradise!

We landed to Gold Coast airport in Coolangatta early morning. AirAsia is cheap, and it works out, but there are few things to keep in mind when taking it: remember water, own entertainment and extra clothes with you (the climate can be similar to fridge, and it costs to get a blanket).

Our hostel (Coolangatta YHA) is just around the corner from the airport and we liked it there, the service was excellent and it had everything you need. We walked to the beach right away. It was something we have never experienced before! Sand like powder as far as you can see! The sand is similar to potato powder and it makes funny noise when walking on it.

Gold Coast

It’s easy to investigate the whole Gold Coast by public transportation. The buses run often and the tram is really simple to use, all the information is clear. The hottest spot in Gold Coast is supposedly Surfer’s Paradise. Our impression of the Gold Coast was something we could compare to the big ski centers in Europe. There are expensive hotels, pubs, clubs, and skiing (surfing in this case).  All in all, we got really good impression of Australia when starting our trip from there. Everything was so clean and tidy, and extremely beautiful. It’s quite expensive, but hanging on the beaches is anyway free! What we also noticed, that there were no people on the beach trying to sell you something all the time like back in Europe.

We had a stop also in Burleigh head, there is a really wonderful little national park on a peninsula. The town has a lovely beach with pine trees. And yes, here we got our skins burned for the first time.

 

THE car!

Our trip really started when we took our rental car from Jucy agency. Their service was top class (https://www.jucy.com.au/). This car is the best! The old (driven 430k km) Toyota (yey!), with the back you can sleep in. There is a little kitchen (cooker and water) in behind also. This is something we don’t have at home! It was a bit challenging to organize the things in the car first, but having enough of plastic bags and you can divide clothes etc. so that the “5S” is working out.

 

Tip! Remember to check your credit card limits before the car rental office. We couldn’t pay the bond and ended up buying the highest insurance.

The traffic on the left is challenging, but we survived, just pay attention all the time! Especially take care when you start to feel smooth and nice with it! The traffic signs are mainly written (i.e. instead of an arrow there is a sign “stay left”). So, here we are, having a wannabe caravan, and being among those we have always cursed back at home…

Tip! To find accommodation when camping, upload “Australia WikiCamp (thanks for the tip Anna / https://muuttolintu.com/)

By far we have only one overnight on a street, the rest nights we stayed in camping areas. The price for camping is 30-40 AUD per night, and with that you basically get the toilets, showers and cooking facilities to use. Staying on the street is not permitted, so it’s a little tricky to find a nice spot and take care the ranger won’t fine you.

Some general notes over camping and stuff:

  • Take a flashlight with you (head lamp would be the handy)
  • Darkness comes after 6 pm, and it will surprise, the day is over latest at 9 pm.
  • Yes, you wake up around 6 am as the sun heats up the van
  • Take the folding table and chairs if they offer these in the agency
  • Not a bad idea to have a “space blanket” (the one from the first aid kit) with you to put on the dash board as it gets HOT

Sunshine coast

We drove to Mooloolaba, one of the villages along Sunshine coast. It was such a beautiful village with perfect beach (seems to be the rule). We really recommend Mooloolaba to visit! It was just simply amazing! Sunshine coast is a little bit “not so touristic” as the Gold Coast, and we would evaluate that the price level might be a tiny bit cheaper.

Training camp?

We started our mornings with running at least some. It’s really hard in the heat and anyway this travelling is causing some general laziness. In every village on the Gold and Sunshine coasts there are really good paths alongside the beach. Besides the paths there are “adult playground”; some systems to do outdoor gym. We ran about 3 km (oh yeah) and then did some training and walked on top of that about 4 km. It took about 1,5 hours and was very good start for the day. After done that and taking the shower, it was always 10 am, and time to leave the camping behind.

Running on the beach is such euphoria! Dropping to the ocean is perfect, tho it’s not swimming, it’s hanging on the waves.

Tip! Buy one of those toy surf boards, it’s so much fun in the water (if you don’t surf in real)

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Noosa

Noosa is the northernmost village of Sunshine Coast. There are villas and restaurants, and (again) very beautiful beach. We shortly visited Noosa Heads national park, it was pretty, but we didn’t see koalas nor other animals (it might be also that we are blind). We were really thinking how they even can do orienteering in this country, as it looks so scary to leave the signed path. Aren’t there spiders and snakes and other friends? Hopefully Jarrah, our friend in Tasmania, will advise us on this… From Noosa it’s nice to visit the Frasier Island, and this is what we did! To be continued…